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Saving Turkish Synagogues In Izmir

Izmir, in Turkey, is the only city in the world in which an unusual cluster of synagogues, bearing a typical 16th architectural style, are preserved. Some of these synagogues are adjacent to each other, creating an historical architectural complex unique in the world, and unknown even to world Jewry.

turkey-map

There is a real danger that some of these precious historic buildings will cave in completely, leading to the loss of this extraordinary architectural and religious Jewish heritage, unless a major and urgent effort is made to rescue them.

Following the expulsion of Jews from Spain and Portugal in 1492, Jewish refugees’ descendants came to Izmir, and brought with them the Sephardic Jewish heritage, the Ladino (Judeo-Spanish) language, and the Sephardic traditions of religion, worship and lifestyle, which is expressed in the synagogues.

Of 34 magnificent shuls built in previous centuries in Izmir, in typical local architectural style, only nine remain today, around the market area in the old city of Izmir. Some are in ruins, with collapsed ceilings and walls, their contents disintegrating. Some are preserved.

These synagogues constitute a living testimony to the history of the Jewish community in Izmir, which exerted a great spiritual influence on Jewish diaspora communities in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Sinyora Synagogue after restoration
Sinyora Synagogue after restoration

Izmir is apparently home to the world’s only complex of adjacent ancient synagogues constructed in the unique 16th century Sephardic/Anatolian  architectural style. Of the 34 synagogues built in Izmir, just 13 remain, nine of which are in the old city. The few synagogues still in active use are in good shape and reflect various architectural styles.

This whole site tells an epic story of the expulsion of Jews from Spain, and the journey of their descendants to new communities within the Ottoman Empire. But without serious and quick intervention, these synagogues will deteriorate and will disappear from the city’s cultural history forever.

The Kiriaty Foundation, with the support of the Jewish community, has donated seed money for their restoration and the establishment of a visitor’s site and a Jewish heritage museum, including a research center for inter-cultural dialogue.

The purpose of the project is to save the synagogues in poor condition and to restore the ones in ruins. This will heighten awareness of the unique Ladino language and culture and the unique Spanish-Ottoman architecture that developed within Izmir’s Jewish community. The project will also give the non-Jewish population an opportunity to understand and appreciate Jewish culture and values and to respect minority cultures.

In recent years, a number of steps have been taken to promote this project:

The Izmir Project was accepted as a member of the AEJM — the European Association of Jewish museums.

A Jewish textile collection (ark curtains and Torah scrolls), including approximately 220 Judaic textile-items found in the old synagogues, is being conserved. They tell stories about the Jewish community and the influence of Ottoman art on Judaic ritual art. This project is being carried out by the textile conservation department of Helsinki University.

A successful effort was made by the Jewish community leadership to register Izmir’s synagogues in the name of the Jewish community. The Turkish government formally allowed it to take ownership of these assets.

Reconstruction of Beit Hillel Synagogue was completed by the Izmir municipality so it could be turned into a small museum dedicated to the life and work of the famous Rabbi Hayim Palacci .

Etz Hayim Synagogue
Etz Hayim Synagogue

Rescue operations were undertaken to prevent the floor of the Etz Hayim Synagogue from collapsing, and to strengthen the foundations and basement of  the Algazi Synagogue.

Synagogues sites have been opened to visitors. A special seminar for local tour guides about the synagogues and the community’s history took place under the auspices of the Yad Ben Zvi institute in March 2014.

The Izmir Jewish Heritage Tourism project was formally launched as a tourist venture at the Travel Turkey Izmir International Tourism Fair, which took place in December 2014. Information about ithas been posted on our tourism site: www.izmirjewishheritage.com.

Outer walls of Forasteros Synagogue
Outer walls of Forasteros Synagogue

Many additional challenges still face our multi-dimensional project: To rescue and preserve a rare collection of 2,500 ancient books in Hebrew and Ladino, written by renowned rabbis. To restore the ruins of the Foresteros Synagogue. To complete the restoration and preservation work of the Etz Hayim Synagogue, according to plans that were recently completed. To establish a Jewish Museum in Izmir within the complex of the ancient synagogue site, which will document the history of Jews in the city, attract many tourists and travellers, Jews and non-Jews, from around the world, and promote a better understanding of Jewish culture in Turkish Muslim society.

Nesim Bencoya is the representative of the Kiriaty Foundation in Izmir, the site manager of Izmir Project and the founder of Izmir Sephardic Cultural Heritage Association.